The Journals of Juan Crespi

The following is from a work-in-progress about the history of Fullerton. You can support my ongoing research and writing on Patreon.

Juan Crespi was a Franciscan missionary who accompanied Gaspar de Portola on his 1769 overland expedition from San Diego to Monterey. The party included another friar named Franscisco Gomez, several Spanish soldiers, and a number of native “footmen” who did much of the grunt work of clearing the trail.

At this time, there was no European settlement in Alta (“Upper”) California. The purpose of Portola’s expedition was to begin the process of Spanish colonization of this region by establishing missions, presidios (military forts), and pueblos (towns). 

Both Portola and Crespi kept journals of the expedition, and both of these journals survive. Of the two, Crespi’s is way more detailed. In 2001, San Diego State University Press published Crespi’s journals in both English and Spanish, translated by professor Alan K. Brown.

What follows here are excerpts from the portion of Crespi’s journal as he traveled through present-day Orange County–from July 22-30, 1769. To me these first-hand accounts provide a unique window into first contacts between the native inhabitants of this area, and the Spanish colonizers. The journals are also valuable in that they record what the land looked like before it was developed by Euro-Americans into the landscape we know today.

July 22, 1769: [To Christianitos Canyon, which reaches the Pacific at the southern edge of today’s city of San Clemente]: “At eleven o’clock we came to a pool of fresh water, found by the scouts yesterday at a dry creek where there is a great amount of sycamore and live oaks. We must have gone four leagues to reach this spot. We stopped close to the pool and close to a village of heathens who visited us once, some fourteen men and as many more women with boy and girl children. They are all very tractable Indians. They say there is another large pool further downstream at this place. The spot, a good one for a farm, has its small share of soil and good grass. 

On our reaching this spot the scouting soldiers told us that they had seen yesterday a girl infant in arms who was dying. We requested the Governor for two or three soldiers to go with us, and then we two Fathers went to the village to try to see this infant in arms and baptize her if she was in danger. We did find her in her mother’s arms, scarcely able to nurse, but the mother would not in any wise see us. We gave her to understand, as well as we could that we did not wish to harm the child, only to wash its head with water, so that if it died it would go to Heaven. As well as he could with her clutched to her mother’s breast, Father Fray Francisco Gomez baptized her; she was named Maria Magdalena, and I have no doubt that she will die and that in passing by we have won this soul’s passage to Heaven. We named this spot the small pool of San Apolinario, Saint Apollinarius. 

We met not a heathen upon this whole day’s march before reaching this spot. As I was finishing writing up this day’s march, we were reminded of another little girl, about two and a half years old, who had also seemed ill to us though we had never been able to assure ourselves whether this were the case. In the end we went back with some soldiers and learned that she had been burned and was feeling very sick, so that I took the measure of baptizing her. Since Father Gomez had baptized the other, I christened this one myself, naming her Margarita. God take both of them into Heaven; and so, in passing by, we have gained these two who would to pray in Heaven for the winning over and conversion of all these poor wretches here.

About on a parallel with this spot lies the first island of the Santa Barbara Channel, called San Clemente.

July 23: [North up Christianitos Canyon, over the hills and down to San Juan Creek (named later for the mission). They followed the creek west to the future location of Mission San Juan Capistrano. The state highway that now follows San Juan Creek in this area is named Ortega Highway after the leader of Portolá’s scouts]: 

A good many live oaks have been seen all along the way, here and there on the knolls and hills. We came across a good-sized heathen village at one of the two hollows, where they commenced shouting to us as soon as they were aware of us, and came to meet us as though to set us on the watering place whither we were bound…The spot seems a very fine one for a mission…

In all of the past days marches, I have been forgetting to set down that they possess dogs at all of the villages. We have seen villages having two or else three black and white parti-colored dogs; in the village we set out from today we saw a black one. 

On this day’s march we came across two mines of what seemed good red-earth, ochre, and a very white earth. They were located at some small knolls, and we passed nearly through their midst; clearly, they must have been opened by the heathens to get the paints which are their normal dress. 

This hollow and stream rises at the foot of the mountains within view here, and runs from about north-northeastward, with the whole of this direction being very much lined with a great deal of trees, sycamore, willows, large live oaks, cottonwoods and other kinds we could not recognize. It is a well-watered spot, one for founding a good-sized mission at…On reaching this spot, we heard some heathens crying out across some knolls, but they have not shown themselves nearby.

July 24: To Aliso Creek. [The neighborhood where the creek exits the hills is now called Portola Hills]:

Before our setting out, about nine heathens belonging to the villages of this hollow showed themselves, coming up unarmed. They are very friendly, tractable Indians, and by no means unruly like what we had experienced with the ones at San Diego. Coming down into the hollow here, we shortly came upon two good-sized villages worth of of them where they were encamped beneath some bushes with their women and children. We were unable to count them because of their being packed together; with the heathen men all smoking upon very big, thick Indian pipes of baked clay. Upon our greeting them, none of them stirred, except to make the usual speech (no telling what they were saying to us), and we passed on. 

We went two leagues through this hollow, with very good soil; its width between hills must be three to four hundred yards in spots; it had all been burnt off by the heathens [local tribes would do controlled burns as a type of land management].

…On going about another league over good-sized tablelands, we came down to a pleasant stream and hollow all lined with a great many large sycamores and large live oaks, so that the entire bed of this hollow looking so handsome makes a very agreeable effect, seeming like a fig orchard. On going about three hours, in which we must have made three leagues…

This lovely spot, so excellent for a good-sized mission…hoping for it to be in time to come a good-sized mission for the conversion of the tractable, well-behaved, and friendly heathen folk here.

Here we met a good-sized village of heathens who at once, on seeing us approaching, all set up a sort of general howling at us, as though they had been wolves, but all of them well-pleased; and at once upon our arriving, they all came over entirely weaponless to our camp, and have stayed with us the whole time we have spent here. A very fine heathen folk indeed: they presented us with a great deal of their grass seeds, which are very good [and] a great deal of very good sage [gruel] refreshment; while the soldiers have also gotten a great amount of them by barter. Our governor, and the Captain, presented them with beads, with which they were well-pleased…

They make very good-sized and fine baskets, bowls, and a sort of rushwork-wickerweave made of very close-woven rushes. Because we stopped very close by their village, we have had them at the camp almost continually, men, women, and children showing such friendliness, cheerfulness, and happiness as though they had been dealing with us forever. We counted twenty-some men; there were a good many women and children, and some of the children are very fair and red-haired. The women are very decently covered up. The two of us have been saying many things to them about God, saying “love-God,” “amor a Dios,” very often, and we have had them kiss the crucifix and our rosary crosses, which they did many time without the slightest reluctance. Whenever we would retire into our little tent, the moment we came out to get anything they would see us and all together would break out with “Amar a dios, amar a Dios.” I have had the little ones repeating the Acts of Faith, Hope, and Charity over and over; indeed these heathens have so entirely won my heart that I very gladly would have stayed with them. 

From a high knoll at this place, we saw the first two islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, called San Clemente and Santa Catalina, about four leagues off.

(Every day, we can plainly recognize that there is a change in the language.) I shall set down here some terms belonging to the language of this spot; as I saw afterward, it goes on being understood over a distance of some leagues. They are as follows; first the Spanish and then come the word in the language:

What is it called: Ibi

Water: Pal

Bear: Junut

Live oak: Uasal

Hand: Nima

Is Coming: Igage

Fish: Loquiuchi

Hare: Suichi

Deer: Sucuat

Antelope: Pat

Way: Petlou

Sea: Momt

Village: Esat

Sun: Temete

Moon: Muil

Sage: Pasal

Sky: Tupachi

Canoe, or balza float: Paut

Earth: Exel

Stone: Tot

Man: Potato

Woman: Sungal

Small child in arms: Amaisicalla

Cup or bowl: Joil

Fire: Cut

Tobacco: Piut

Pipe: Cabalmel

Reed: Juiquichi

Flint: Tacat

Arrow: Jul

Bow: Catapichi

July 26: [Short march northwest along the edge of the foothills, to a spring at the northern edge of today’s Irvine, California. From a hill above, the party first sees the broad coastal plain of northwestern Orange County]:

On our setting out from there, the entire village gathered together as though to show they were sorry, telling us over and over what we had taught them to say, “Love-God, Love-God,” by way of a farewell…

We traveled over very open country of very low rolling knolls and tablelands all very grass-grown, up hill and down through three of four hollows with very good soil and a great deal of sycamore trees in the hollows. We came across six antelopes and a great many hares, none of which could be taken, all of them being very swift runners. 

July 27: [To Santiago Creek, so named by Crespí]:

The water here flows through the midst of this large plain of apparently very good soil and of leagues in breadth and length; how far away the sea must be there is no telling. We christened this grand, fine, and lovely spot with the name of Santiago Apostol, Saint James the Apostle, Patron of the Two Spains…

July 28: [To the Santa Ana River, one of the major rivers of southern California. The soldiers of the expedition gave the river the name Santa Ana. A strong earthquake is felt that afternoon; aftershocks are recorded over the next few days]:

We pursued our way and at about a scant league and a half came to this full-flowing river, and indeed it is one, a good-sized river going through the midst of the plain here. It is not sunken in: its bed must hold at least ten yards worth of running water, with a depth of half a yard of water all across the bed.

Its course comes out of the mountain range that must lie about two or three leagues away from us, from northeast to southwestward, an it is imagined that southwestward it must empty into the sea…This river bed here is very much lined with trees, white cottonwoods, willows, sycamores, and other kinds we have not recognized.

By what we have noticed from the sands along its banks, this river must plainly carry very large floods, and we had some trouble fording it even now, in the depth of the dry season and the dog days. There will be no crossing it in the rainy season–its current is rapid enough now. They have seen good-sized catfish in it. 

A large village of friendly tractable heathens is upon the other side of the river, who came over as soon as we had arrived and set up camp, about 54 heathens, bringing us their usual present, two large bowls half full of sage gruel, and other sorts of parched grass seeds that they consume…The women and children were so many that we were unable to count them…Their chief gave the usual speech and presented it to our Governor, and their chief took a string of shell-beads of the sort that they use and a net out of his pouch and made a present of it as well. (Our Governor presented them with the usual beads, and a handkerchief.)

They are all very well-behaved, tractable folk, who seem somewhat lean–though the men were very strongly built–and food must be in short supply with them. 

We made camp close to the river here, and we have felt these strong earthquakes within less than an hour today at noon. The first and most violent must have lasted the length of a Creed, the other two less than a Hail Mary, a great shaking of the ground, however, was felt during all three. 

This is the most beautiful spot, with a great amount of soil and water–with this beautiful river going, as it does, through the midst of the wide and far-reaching level here–for founding a mission…We christened this grand spot here The Most Sweet Name of Jesus, of the rio de los Temblores, River of Eartqhakes. This afternoon the villagers returned and kept inviting us to come dance at their village, but we told them it was not our custom to dance.

They also brought white gemstones appearing like fine glass, which we understood they had gotten from the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel. They urged us not to go away, saying that this is their land, that they will sustain us on sage [gruel] of which they have a good amount, and on bear [meat]. We told them that we are coming back, and we will stay with them and build a house with them.

In order to have us remain, they pointed out for us one man who is their chief and the owner of all this land. Our Sergeant and the two of us Fathers told them we would come back, and when we did, we would make a house for the Sergeant and for ourselves (and one for God that He might be worshipped by them), and upon our saying this, such tears of joy and happiness sprang to their chief’s eyes as he touched the hearts of all of us. 

And would they allow me to, I would most gladly return in order to stay with these poor wretches for their conversion and the good of their souls–That in case any people shall want to harm us, they will protect us, and we said the same to them, and that we will keep them fed and clothed as well. Blessed be God, for I trust the hour is near that they shall know and worship Him.

July 29: [North-northwest to the hills north of modern Fullerton, or possibly a little further north into La Habra]:

Once across the river, everything is overgrown with prickly pear and sage; very shortly the soil became very grass-grown with dry grass. On going a short way we turned north-northwestward, and on going about a league and a half back again to the northwest, and went up the aforesaid nearer range, which had become very low in this direction, and at a bit over two hours travel came down to a little, very green hollow where there was a large heathen village with a small pool of fresh water. Here at this village we met a great many heathens from the river we had set out from. They wished us to stop at their village, but as it lacked convenience there, we withdrew to a very grass-grown knoll about a musket shot away and there set up camp. Because this knoll lies in a large valley, three of four leagues in length, it may be; the width may be a league, and by what we understood from the heathens there, there is no water in it but this little pool, which only had what was needed for the people, and this evening the mounts had to go without. Once camp was made, the whole village came over, so that what with men and boys we counted about seventy souls of them, all very fine, well-behaved heathens like the ones at the river we last crossed, and we saw none of them carrying weapons.

We have been gathering that messengers are going out to the following villages to tell that we do not harm them but are good people, so that they are already notified, and quite fearless of us. I give this spot the name of The village of the little pool and valley of Santa Marta, Saint Martha. A strong quake was felt here, though lasting less than a Hail Mary.

July 30: [Leaving Orange County and entering Los Angeles County, the expedition heads north over the pass (La Habra) through the Puente Hills. Today’s North Harbor Boulevard follows the Portolá route over the pass. The march continued northwest to the San Gabriel River, where the party built “a bridge of poles” to cross the miry riverbed. This bridge (La Puente in Crespi’s diary) is remembered in the name of today’s nearby city of La Puente]:

Once across this valley here, which has very fine soil and better grass, we went up a hill, all grass-grown and sheer soil, and came into hollows with er large live oak, and sycamores, and through these, on going three hours in which we must have made three leagues, we came down to a very wide-reaching, green, exceedingly spacious valley of dark, very level friable soil, all burnt off by the heathens. Going about a league through this valley, we came to the water the scouts had found; it is a very large stream of running water flowing through the midst of a very green swamp much clad in all sorts of plants and good grasses, and here we made our camp…

This swamp and watering place here lies upon the east of this valley, and because of it being very miry, a bridge had to be made to get across the aforesaid stream. In every way a very grand, excellent spot for a very large plenteous mission. I called it La puente del arroyo del Valle de San Miguel, the bridge of the stream of the Saint Michael Valley. A strong earthquake was felt this afternoon, though a very brief one, yet the ground shook a great deal. I observed this spot in north latitude 33 degrees 54 minutes.